By C.M. Mayo www.cmmayo.com
Thanks to my fellow typospherian Joe van Cleave's recommendation, in Frederick Turner’s In the Land of the Temple Caves: From St. Emilion to Paris’ St. Sulpice I now have both a sparkling addition to my annual Top Books Read (posted every December) and to my workshop’s list of recommended literary travel memoirs. What prompted me to read In the Land of the Temple Caves, aside from an avid interest in American literary travel memoir, is that I’ve been a devotée of rock art ever since I first encountered some jaw-dropping examples of it in remotest Baja California and, as those of you who follow this blog well know, I have long been at work on a book about Far West Texas, and that includes the Lower Pecos which has some the most spectacular and ancient rock art of the Americas.
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Showing posts with label rock art. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rock art. Show all posts
Monday, September 16, 2019
Monday, August 19, 2019
August from the Archives: On the Trail of the Rock Art of the Lower Pecos
By C.M. Mayo
August 2019 finds me on vacation. Nonetheless, each Monday this month I will be offering posts from the archive (as usual, look for a workshop post on the second Monday, Q & A with a fellow writer on the fourth Monday).
>>READS THIS POST ON THE NEW PLATFORM AT WWW.MADAM-MAYO.COM
August 2019 finds me on vacation. Nonetheless, each Monday this month I will be offering posts from the archive (as usual, look for a workshop post on the second Monday, Q & A with a fellow writer on the fourth Monday).
>>READS THIS POST ON THE NEW PLATFORM AT WWW.MADAM-MAYO.COM
Monday, August 05, 2019
August From the Archives: “12 Tips for Summer Day Hiking in the Desert (How to Stay Cool and Avoid Actinic Keratosis, Blood, and Killer Bees)”
August 2019 finds me on vacation. Nonetheless, each Monday this month I will be offering posts from the archive (as usual, look for a workshop post on the second Monday; Q & A with a fellow writer on the fourth Monday).
12 Tips for Summer Day Hiking in the Desert
(How to Stay Cool and Avoid Actinic Keratosis,
Blood, and Killer Bees)
(How to Stay Cool and Avoid Actinic Keratosis,
Blood, and Killer Bees)
Originally posted at Madam Mayo blog, September 8, 2014
By C.M. Mayo www.cmmayo.com
>>CONTINUE READING THIS POST AT WWW.MADAM-MAYO.COM
Monday, May 22, 2017
Q & A with Mary S. Black About Her New Book, "From the Frio to Del Rio"
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Amazon or IndieBound |
[>>CONTINUE READING THIS POST AT WWW.MADAM-MAYO.COM]
From the catalog:
"Each year, more than two million visitors enjoy the attractions of the Western Hill Country, with Uvalde as its portal, and the lower Pecos River canyonlands, which stretch roughly along US 90 from Brackettville, through Del Rio, and on to the west. Amistad National Recreation Area, the Judge Roy Bean Visitors’ Center and Botanical Garden, Seminole Canyon State Park, and the Briscoe-Garner Museum in Uvalde, along with ghost towns, ancient rock art, sweeping vistas, and unique flora and fauna, are just a few of the features that make this distinctive section of the Lone Star State an enticing destination.
"Now, veteran writer, blogger, and educator Mary S. Black serves up the best of this region’s special adventures and secret treasures. From the Frio to Del Rio is chock-full of helpful maps, colorful photography, and tips on where to stay, what to do, and how to get there. In addition there are details for 10 scenic routes, 3 historic forts and 7 state parks and other recreation areas."
Herewith an interview with the author:
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Mary S. Black Author of Peyote Fire and From the Frio to Del Rio |
MARY S. BLACK: I think what inspired me was the land itself, and the history. The Lower Pecos Canyonlands are not well known by most people, but the landscape is incredibly majestic and unexpected. You can be driving 70 miles per hour down the highway through the desert, when, wham, a huge canyon veers off to the left like a sudden tear in the earth.
These canyons were inhabited by human beings for thousands of years. They lived off the land and made paintings on the canyon walls that illustrate their gods and belief systems. Over 300 of these paintings still exist, and you can visit some of them. They are a treasure of human culture, and I hope more people will learn to value them as something important for us to save. The people who settled this area historically were a diverse bunch with a lot of gumption. Do people know that word anymore? I guess in modern language, we might say they had a lot of guts.
C.M. MAYO: In your view, what is the most underrated place in this region?
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Las Moras Springs |
The pool is located on Ft. Clark, and old U.S. Army fort originally built in 1849. You can get a day-pass for $5.00 at the guard house to enter the fort, enjoy the pool or play golf on either of two gold courses, and look at all the old stone buildings that remain from when the place was an active Army fort. There is also a really interesting museum there that is open on Saturdays.
C.M. MAYO: What is your favorite place?
MARY S. BLACK: Hands down, the White Shaman Preserve. The best studied of all the ancient murals is located there. This is a polychrome painting about 25 feet long and 13 feet high done on a rock wall overlooking the Pecos River. This painting tells a story about creation and how the sun was born, according to Dr. Carolyn Boyd. You can visit the preserve on Saturdays at noon if you make a reservation online through the Witte Museum. Tours are two-three hours long, and require a fairly strenuous hike down a canyon to a rockshelter, then back up. But to be up there, to see the mural up close and in person, to look out over the river and imagine the people who made this painting, can change your whole perspective. It’s that powerful.
C.M. MAYO: Your favorite seasonal or annual event?
MARY S. BLACK: I have two: autumn color near Lost Maples State Natural Area near Vanderpool, and tubing in the cold Frio river in summer. Both are unique experiences in Texas and shouldn’t be missed. An isolated stand of bigtooth maple turns orange and red in Sabinal Canyon in late November. And swimming in the Frio at Garner State Park is like heaven on a hot day.
C.M. MAYO: What surprised you in researching this book?
MARY S. BLACK: How fascinating the area really is. The more I learned, the more I wanted to know. The region has seven state parks and natural areas, nine ghost towns, three historic Army forts, and many scenic drives. But the coolest part was reading about all the crazy things that have happened there, like train robberies and early airplane adventures. And Indian battles. When settlers from the US and Mexico started coming in after the Civil War, the native Apaches and Comanches were fighting for their lives. And of course the U.S. Army was trying to drive them out. It gets complicated, but there were many interesting people involved in all this, like the Black Seminole Indian Scouts at Ft. Clark, and others. One of the first settlers in the Nueces River valley was a woman named Jerusha Sanchez, who came in the 1860s. Later a widow named Elizabeth Hill and her three sons also pioneered in the area. Blacks, women, immigrants from Italy, Mexico, Germany, and other places, and Native Americans made the history what it is.
C.M. MAYO: You offer an excellent bibliography for further reading. If you could recommend only three of these books, which would they be?
MARY S. BLACK: Hmm, they are so different, let me see. First I think Carolyn Boyd’s new book, which is called simply The White Shaman Mural, just published by University of Texas Press in 2016. She details her 25 years of research on the painting in this book and explains how she cracked the code on what it means, an amazing accomplishment.
Then I nominate Judge Roy Bean Country by Jack Skiles, published in 1996, which is a compilation of local stories of life in the Lower Pecos. The Skiles family has been ranching in the area for over 75 years and can tell stories about mountain lions and smugglers that will make you faint.
Finally, one I found fascinating was The Newton Boys: Portrait of an Outlaw Gang by Willis and Joe Newton as told to Claude Stanush, published in 1994. It tells how they became train robbers and learned to blow bank safes with nitroglycerin, which they did in Texas and the Midwest all through the 1920s. By the time they were captured, they had stolen more money than all other outlaws at the time combined.
> From the Frio to Del Rio is available from amazon.com or your independent bookseller.
> Your comments are always welcome. Write to me here.
P.S. As artist-in-residence I will be giving a free travel and nature writing workshop at the Guadalupe Mountains National Park over this Memorial Day weekend, details to be announced shortly on my events page.
(Marfa Mondays podcast with transcript)
My guest-blog for Mary S. Black:
Tuesday, November 03, 2015
On the Trail of the Rock Art of the Lower Pecos: My Guest Blog for Mary S. Black
>> READ THIS POST ON THE NEW PLATFORM AT WWW.MADAM-MAYO.COM
Mary S. Black is an expert on the Lower Pecos Canyons of Texas and the author of an award-winning historical novel, Peyote Fire. A while back, on her excellent blog, she interviewed me about my Marfa Mondays Podcasting project, my work in-progress about Far West Texas, and some of my previous works. I am very honored that today she is featuring my guest-blog on her blog, "On the Trail of the Rock Art of the Lower Pecos."
I would have to return to the canyonlands— alas for my book’s time and travel budget! Not that the Rock Art Foundation charges more than a nominal sum for its tours. The individual tour to Meyers Spring, which lasted four hours, cost a mere 30 dollars. Everyone involved, including the guides, works for the foundation for free.
Mary S. Black is an expert on the Lower Pecos Canyons of Texas and the author of an award-winning historical novel, Peyote Fire. A while back, on her excellent blog, she interviewed me about my Marfa Mondays Podcasting project, my work in-progress about Far West Texas, and some of my previous works. I am very honored that today she is featuring my guest-blog on her blog, "On the Trail of the Rock Art of the Lower Pecos."
ON THE TRAIL OF THE ROCK ART
OF THE LOWER PECOS
OF THE LOWER PECOS
A Guest-Blog for the Mary S. Black Blog
by
C.M. MAYO
Click here to read this on the Mary S. Black Blog
by
C.M. MAYO
Click here to read this on the Mary S. Black Blog
Remote as they are, the Lower Pecos Canyonlands of the US-Mexico border have a strangely magnetic pull. That may sound like a wild assertion, but the evidence comprises over 200 shamanistic rock art sites, many of them thousands of years old, and the fact that dozens of rock art enthusiasts, including myself, find themselves returning again and again.
It was on a meltingly hot August day in 2014 that I made my first foray into the canyonlands for the Rock Art Foundation’s visit to Meyers Spring. A speck of an oasis tucked into the vast desert just west of the Pecos, Meyers Spring’s limestone overhang is vibrant with petrographs, both ancient, but very faded, and of Plains Indians works including a brave on a galloping horse, an eagle, a sun, and what appears to be a missionary and his church.
MEYERS SPRING,
AUGUST 2014
AUGUST 2014
Because I am writing a book about Far West Texas and I must travel all the way from Mexico City via San Antonio, I had figured that this visit, plus an interview with the foundation’s executive director, Greg Williams, would suffice for such a little-known corner of my subject.
I took home the realization that with Meyers Spring I had taken one nibble of the richest of banquets. In addition the rock art of the Plains Indians—Apaches and Comanches— of historic times, the Lower Pecos Canyonlands are filled with prehistoric art, principally Pecos River, Red Linear, and Red Monochrome. Of the three, Pecos River is comparable to the best known Paleolithic rock in the world, the caves of Lascaux in France.
I would have to return to the canyonlands— alas for my book’s time and travel budget! Not that the Rock Art Foundation charges more than a nominal sum for its tours. The individual tour to Meyers Spring, which lasted four hours, cost a mere 30 dollars. Everyone involved, including the guides, works for the foundation for free.
By December of 2014 I was back for another Rock Art Foundation tour, this one down into Eagle Nest Canyon in Langtry. Apart from rock shelters with their ancient and badly faded petrographs, cooking debris, tools, and even a mummy of a woman who—scientists have determined— died of chagas, Eagle Nest Canyon is the site of Bonfire Shelter, the earliest and the second biggest bison jump, after Canada’s Head Bashed-In, in North America. Some 10,000 years ago hunters drove hundreds of prehistoric bison—larger than today’s bison—over the cliff. And in 800 BC, hunters drove a herd of modern bison over the same cliff, so many animals that the decaying mass of unbutchered and partially butchered carcasses spontaneously combusted. In deeper layers dated to 14,000 years, archaeologists have found bones of camel, horse, and mammoth, among other megafauna of the Pleistocene.
DESCENT INTO EAGLE NEST CANYON,
DECEMBER 2014
DECEMBER 2014
Then in the spring of this year I visited the Lewis Canyon site on the shore of the Pecos, with its mesmerizing petroglyphs of bear claws, atlatls, and stars, and, behind a morass of boulders, an agate mirror of a tinaja encircled by petrographs.
LEWIS CANYON PETROGLYPHS,
MAY 2015
MAY 2015
LEWIS CANYON TINAJA SITE WITH PETROGRAPHS,
BY THE PECOS RIVER,
MAY 2015
BY THE PECOS RIVER,
MAY 2015
Not all but most of the Lower Pecos Canyonland rock art sites— and this includes Meyers Spring, Eagle Nest Canyon and Lewis Canyon— are on private property. Furthermore, visits to Meyers Spring, Lewis Canyon, and many other sites require a high clearance vehicle for a tire-whumping, paint-scraping, bone-jarring drive in. So I was beginning to appreciate the magnitude of the privilege it is to visit these sites. At Lewis Canyon, as I stood on the limestone shore of the sparkling Pecos in utter silence but for the crunch of the boots of my fellow tour members, I learned that less than 50 people a year venture to float down its length.
This October I once again traveled to the Lower Pecos, this time for the Rock Art Foundation’s annual three day Rock Art Rendezvous. Offered this year were the three sites I had already visited, plus a delectable menu that included White Shaman, Fate Bell, and—not for those prone to vertigo— Curly Tail Panther.
WHITE SHAMAN,
OCTOBER 2015
OCTOBER 2015
Just off Highway 90 near its Pecos River crossing, the White Shaman Preserve serves as the headquarters for Rock Art Rendezvous. After a winding drive on dirt road, I parked near the shade structure. From there, the White Shaman rock art site was a brief but rugged hike down one side of cactus-studded canyon, then up the other. I was glad to have brought a hiking pole and leather gloves. No knee surgery on the horizon, either. When I arrived at White Shaman, named after the central luminous figure, the sun was low in the sky, bathing the shelter’s wall and its reddish drawings in gold and turning the Pecos, far below, where an occasional truck droned by, deep silver.
The next morning, at the Rock Art Foundation’s tour of the Shumla Archaeological and Research Center in nearby Comstock, I heard Dr. Carolyn Boyd’s stunning talk about her book, The White Shaman Mural: An Enduring Creation Narrative in the Rock Art of the Lower Pecos, which is forthcoming in 2016 from University of Texas Press. Dr. Boyd, whose work is based on 25 years of archaeological research in the Lower Pecos and a meticulous study of Mexican anthropology, argues that White Shaman, which is many thousands of years old, may represent the oldest known creation story in North America. (See Mary S. Black’s interview with Dr. Boyd, “Deciphering the Oldest American ‘Book.’”)
FATE BELL,
OCTOBER 2015
OCTOBER 2015
From the White Shaman Preserve, Fate Bell is a few minutes down highway 90 in Seminole Canyon State Park. More than any other site, this shelter in the cake-like layers of the limestone walls of a canyon, reminded me of the cave art I had seen in Baja California’s Sierra de San Francisco. Inhabited on and off for some 9,000 years, Fate Bell is the largest site in the Lower Pecos Canyonlands. It has various styles of petrograph, including a spectacular group of anthropomorphs with what appear to be antlers and wings.
CURLY TAIL PANTHER,
OCTOBER 2015
OCTOBER 2015
Curly Tail Panther is a scoop of a cave about the size of a walk-in closet, but as if for Superman to whoosh in, set dizzyingly high on a cliff-side overlooking the Devils River. The back wall has an array of petrographs: red mountain lion, anthropomorphic figures, and geometric designs. The only access to Curly Tail Panther is by way of a narrow ledge. Drop your hiking pole or your sunglasses from here, and you won’t see them again. You might lose a character, too—in the opening of Mary Black’s novel, Peyote Fire, a shaman stumbles to his death from this very ledge. The Rock Art Foundation’s website made it clear, Curly Tail Panther is not for anyone who has a fear of heights. But who doesn’t? My strategy was to take a deep breath and, like the running shoes ad says, Just do it.
Monday, October 26, 2015
White Shaman and Fate Bell
The several thousand year-old "White Shaman" is one of the most stunning rock art sites in the Lower Pecos Canyonlands. Here is my brief video of my recent visit with the Rock Art Foundation:
Dr. Carolyn Boyd's book on this magnificent site known as "White Shaman" for its luminous central figure will be out in the fall of 2016 from the University of Texas Press. She has decoded what she claims is a codex, and it is the oldest known record of a creation story in North America. In essence, "White Shaman" is a book.
> Check out the fascinating interview with Dr. Boyd by Mary S. Black, an expert on the Lower Pecos Canyonlands, here.
One of the other sites I visited during Rock Art Rendezvous was Fate Bell, in Seminole Canyon State Park. Here's that video:
Much more anon.
Your comments are always welcome.
Dr. Carolyn Boyd's book on this magnificent site known as "White Shaman" for its luminous central figure will be out in the fall of 2016 from the University of Texas Press. She has decoded what she claims is a codex, and it is the oldest known record of a creation story in North America. In essence, "White Shaman" is a book.
> Check out the fascinating interview with Dr. Boyd by Mary S. Black, an expert on the Lower Pecos Canyonlands, here.
One of the other sites I visited during Rock Art Rendezvous was Fate Bell, in Seminole Canyon State Park. Here's that video:
Much more anon.
Your comments are always welcome.
Monday, October 19, 2015
Curly Tail Panther
Just back from the Rock Art Foundation's annual Rock Art Rendezvous at the White Shaman Preserve on the US-Mexico border near Comstock, Texas.
Here is a mini-clip of my visit to Curly Tail Panther, one of the several (yes, several) marvels I visited this past weekend (1 minute 49 seconds):
According to the Rock Art Foundation's website:
Mosey on over to Mary S. Black's blog for an interview with Dr. Carolyn Boyd on her jaw-dropping research about these sites and in particular, White Shaman.
More, indeed, waaaaay more, anon.
Here is a mini-clip of my visit to Curly Tail Panther, one of the several (yes, several) marvels I visited this past weekend (1 minute 49 seconds):
According to the Rock Art Foundation's website:
"The Curly Tail Panther site is high on the cliffs with a breathtaking view of the Devils River valley but accessible only by a very narrow ledge. Such settings were conducive to the visionary experiences that are the core of shamanistic belief systems. Two large mountain lions flanking an anthropomorphic shaman, typical of the Pecos River style, dominate the scene but Red Linear, Red Monochrome, and geometric designs testify to the enduring appeal of this shallow overhang with its spectacular vistas."
Mosey on over to Mary S. Black's blog for an interview with Dr. Carolyn Boyd on her jaw-dropping research about these sites and in particular, White Shaman.
More, indeed, waaaaay more, anon.
Monday, June 22, 2015
Cyberflanerie: Western Digs: Dispatches from the Ancient American West
A new website on my radar: Western Digs, by veteran science journalist Blake de Pastino.
Just a few of the many fascinating troves of information (some of them gruesome) in there:
My own interest is in the Trans-Pecos region of Far West Texas (more about the book-in-progress here).
In case you missed it, my podcast interview (with transcript) with Greg Williams, Executive Director of the Rock Art Foundation, is here.
Plus here is a batch of brief videos of some of the rock art sites in the Lower Pecos and elsewhere along the US-Mexico border, as well as other sites in the Trans-Pecos.
> Your comments are always welcome.
Just a few of the many fascinating troves of information (some of them gruesome) in there:
+ Megafloods Spurred Collapse of Ancient City of Caokia, New Study Finds
+ Infamous Mass Grave of Young Women in Ancient Cahokia Also Holds Men: Study
+ Evidence of Hobbling, Torture Discovered at Ancient Massacre Site in Colorado
+ From Stone Darts to Dismembered Bodies, New Study Reveals 5,000 Years of Violence in Central California
Earliest Evidence of Gigantism-Like Disease Found in 3,800 Year Old California Skeleton (Interestingly, the Indians of Baja California told their missionary that the rock art had been made from "giants" who came from "the north." Read a bit about that in an excerpt from my book, Miraculous Air.)
Hallucinogenic Plants May Be Key to decoding Ancient Southwestern Paintings, Expert Says
What Really Killed the Dinosaurs? (10 minute video) (A more complicated story than one might have thought... yes, includes Chikxulub... but also the prior volcanic eruptions of the Deccan Traps and massive marine regressions)
My own interest is in the Trans-Pecos region of Far West Texas (more about the book-in-progress here).
In case you missed it, my podcast interview (with transcript) with Greg Williams, Executive Director of the Rock Art Foundation, is here.
Plus here is a batch of brief videos of some of the rock art sites in the Lower Pecos and elsewhere along the US-Mexico border, as well as other sites in the Trans-Pecos.
> Your comments are always welcome.
Monday, June 08, 2015
Indian Head in Terlingua, along the US-Mexico Border in the Big Bend of Far West Texas
If you've been following this blog and/or the Marfa Mondays podcasts you know I'm a nut for rock art sites. Indian Head, which I visited back in February of 2013, is one of my favorites. It's only a short drive behind Terlingua's main gas station, but it feels as far away as Mars (and it's that quiet, too).
Here's my mini-clip video, starring my expert guide, Charles Angell (who, by the way, I highly recommend for any adventures on and along the Rio Grande and around the Big Bend).
The soundtrack is courtesy of the phabulous Phizmiz, Ergo, that is.
> Marfa Mondays #2, "Charlie Angell in the Big Bend"
> Marfa Mondays #15, "Gifts of the Ancient Ones: Greg Williams, Executive Director of the Rock Art Foundation, on the Rock Art of the Lower Pecos Canyonlands"
> More of my mini-clip rock art and other Far West Texas videos
(What's a "mini-clip"? It's my term for a very short, edited video-- basically, a pirouette up from a GIF. They're intended to be watchable accompaniments to a text and/or podcast.)
Your comments are always welcome.
Here's my mini-clip video, starring my expert guide, Charles Angell (who, by the way, I highly recommend for any adventures on and along the Rio Grande and around the Big Bend).
The soundtrack is courtesy of the phabulous Phizmiz, Ergo, that is.
> Marfa Mondays #2, "Charlie Angell in the Big Bend"
> Marfa Mondays #15, "Gifts of the Ancient Ones: Greg Williams, Executive Director of the Rock Art Foundation, on the Rock Art of the Lower Pecos Canyonlands"
> More of my mini-clip rock art and other Far West Texas videos
(What's a "mini-clip"? It's my term for a very short, edited video-- basically, a pirouette up from a GIF. They're intended to be watchable accompaniments to a text and/or podcast.)
Your comments are always welcome.
Monday, May 25, 2015
Rock Art Adventure in Far West Texas
The book in-progress about Far West Texas is turtling along.... meanwhile, I've posted a few new videos from the travels. All my videos are extremely brief, edited, and with soundtracks. The idea isn't to be the next Ken Burns --though I do love that "Ken Burns" option in iMovie-- but to simply illustrate the text. (Think of them as a pirouette up from GIFs.)
From a recent outing with the Rock Art Foundation (to a site about an hour from Comstock, on the banks of the Pecos River):
LEWIS CANYON PETROGLYPHS
BANKS OF THE PECOS RIVER;
LEWIS CANYON PETROGRAPHS AND TINAJA
MEYERS SPRING
Sound tracks on all three are courtesy of English composer Ergo Phizmiz.
Listen in anytime to my interview with Greg Williams, the director of the Rock Art Foundation, "Marfa Mondays" #15
All Marfa Mondays Podcasts
About the book in-progress
More of my mini-videos of Far West Texas
A TV news clip about some of the fascinating cutting edge research going on at the Shumla School in Comstock
Your comments are always welcome, and I also welcome you to opt in to my every other month-ish newsletter.
From a recent outing with the Rock Art Foundation (to a site about an hour from Comstock, on the banks of the Pecos River):
LEWIS CANYON PETROGLYPHS
BANKS OF THE PECOS RIVER;
LEWIS CANYON PETROGRAPHS AND TINAJA
MEYERS SPRING
Sound tracks on all three are courtesy of English composer Ergo Phizmiz.
Listen in anytime to my interview with Greg Williams, the director of the Rock Art Foundation, "Marfa Mondays" #15
All Marfa Mondays Podcasts
About the book in-progress
More of my mini-videos of Far West Texas
A TV news clip about some of the fascinating cutting edge research going on at the Shumla School in Comstock
Your comments are always welcome, and I also welcome you to opt in to my every other month-ish newsletter.
Tuesday, April 07, 2015
Cyberflanerie: Rock, Mural, Street and Bathroom Wall Edition d'Not Art
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"THIS IS NOT ART" AND, IN SMALL PRINT BELOW, "DON'T MESS WITH TEXAS" (Translation: No littering, dude.) |
So who painted this oh-so-Texan trash receptacle with the Magritte-esque slogan for the Marfa Visitor's Center? A 4th of July cyber-sparkler to you, whoever you are, dear artiste. (At least it was plum-obvious where to deposit the bottles and snack wrappers that had been accumulating on the floor behind the front seat since El Paso.) The question for today's little foray into les mystères de l'art is, would I get arrested were I to spray pink sparkly foam paint all over it? Hard to say. The Marfa Vistor's Center is, after all, walking distance to El Cosmico, where you can rent the yurt and, round about when I was there, sign up for an herbal remedies class-- and I would not be at all surprised to catch some ukelele playing going on at one their "happenings." I mean, Marfans do seem whimsical or at least mind-your-own-business-relaxed when it comes to art-- or, this is not art qua art.
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"MANOS ARRIBA" BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK |
But then-- Madam Mayo plucks a few bees out of her bouffant-- what is "art"?
"Manos Arriba," or "Hands Up," pictured right, is an approximately 1,000- 2,000 year-old rock art site in the relatively nearby (by Far West Texas standards) Big Bend Ranch State Park. Never mind that hypothetical can of pink sparkly foam; you touch that rock art and the ranger sees you, boy howdy, you're in a poke of trouble. Carve your name and a date into the rock with your penknife? Seriously illegal. And if you did that back in, say, 1887? Well, you'd be dead by now so much as the ranger might like to, true, she couldn't do anything.
Voyez l'équation simple:
+ Really old man-made marks = Art. Approved response: From a reverent distance, take pictures.
vs.
+ Relatively recent marks, including those made as long ago as 1887 by nonindigenous people = Defacement. Approved response: Express dismay.
![]() |
Bloggable Graffito, circa 2015 Ladies Room, Plaine coffee shop Alpine, Texas |
Voyez l'équation étonnante:
+ Writing on coffee shop bathroom wall that evidences childlike yet articulate whimsy referring to marine life = Bloggable.
vs.
+ Writing on coffee shop bathroom wall that evidences childlike and inarticulate whimsy referring to just about anything and everything else = Ick.
Where does the hypothetical sparkly pink foam paint come in? I don't think it does.
Once home in Mexico City I encountered this street art mural with a hand appearing to reach for a grape-purple grenade with feet:
I have absolutely no idea what it all means. The word BOMB to the left often appears in Mexico City graffiti, why I know not.
On a more high-toned note, here is a small section I snapped of one of the murals by Víctor Cuaduro in the Government Palace of Querétaro, Mexico, of the three monarchists executed on the Cerro de las Campanas in 1867, Maximilian and his generals Mejía and Miramón. If you were to apply anything from a spray can to that-- let's say you wanted to make a stencil of your hand, as in "Manos arriba"-- I'll bet you a million pesos that you would be speedily tackled by the several security guards.
P.S. Instant Art Critique Phrase Generator. I typed in 12345 and got:
With regard to the issue of content, the disjunctive perturbation of the spatial relationships brings within the realm of discourse the distinctive formal juxtapositions.
+ + + + + +
Once home in Mexico City I encountered this street art mural with a hand appearing to reach for a grape-purple grenade with feet:
![]() |
Mexico City street art |
I have absolutely no idea what it all means. The word BOMB to the left often appears in Mexico City graffiti, why I know not.
![]() |
Madam Mayo pronounces this Very Fine Art. |
P.S. Instant Art Critique Phrase Generator. I typed in 12345 and got:
With regard to the issue of content, the disjunctive perturbation of the spatial relationships brings within the realm of discourse the distinctive formal juxtapositions.
+ + + + + +
But seriously now...
The Lower Pecos Canyonlands have been much on my mind as I am writing a book about Far West Texas, and one of the many compare-and-contrast items from my previous book, Miraculous Air, about Mexico's Baja California peninsula, is the rock art. So far I've visited a multitude of sites in the Big Bend (most recently in the canyon that runs north-south alongside the western flank of the Solitario) plus the Lower Pecos Canyonlands sites at Meyers Spring and Eagle Nest Canyon at Langtry, which drains into the Rio Grande, that is, the US-Mexico border. And this May, just a scootch east of the Pecos, I plan to visit Curly Tail Panther. Did I mention, Lower Pecos Canyonlands rock art is spectacular?
Apropos of the Lower Pecos Canyonlands, a recent and delightful discovery is that my fellow Women Writing the West member Mary S. Black, an expert on the Lower Pecos, has published a novel, Peyote Fire: Shaman of the Canyon, about the Archaic artists-- to my knowledge, the first historical novel about these people. I'm looking forward to reading it, as well as her guidebook to the region which is in-progress.
> My brief video of the first part of the hike into Eagle Nest Canyon.
> Check out these photos of a storm in May 2014 with massive flooding in that same canyon-- it gives an idea of how the caves were formed.
***UPDATE*** For more jaw-dropping photos and archaeological updates, check out the blog: Ancient Southwest Texas Project-- Texas State University 2o15 Expedition to Eagle Nest Canyon
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